So then, why do not all breeders' dogs look the same? First, even if they tried to accomplish that, it simply wouldn't be that easy. The variabilities that result from simple genetics would preclude that. However, there are two other reasons. The first of those is that "words" are interpreted differently based on experience and understanding. There are many things that are quite specific in some standards and many that aren't. Look at the standard that follows and try to explain to someone who has never seen a Gordon what "good-sized" is, or a "rather short back". It is impossible without pictures or a point of reference. For most breeders, that point of reference may be the dogs that they have seen. So, if a person has always seen rather small dogs, one slightly bigger would be considered "good-sized", but another person with an experience with larger dogs, might find that same specimen very small. It's a matter of perspective.

There's a more important reason for the differences in styles of Gordons, though. That is summed up by the word "priorities". With thousands of genes under consideration with each planned breeding, it is simply impossible to breed for everything. So, most breeders establish priorities and, over the years, those priorities seem to be fixed in the look of the dogs they breed. Perhaps their priorities change but, in most cases, it becomes a matter of adding to the priorities rather than a complete shift in direction.

If you are looking for a dog, that's a good reason to get to know the breeder and the dogs produced by them very well. By understanding that person's priorities, you'll be able to predict more closely the type of dog you might get from them. It's not that one person is right and the other wrong; it's just a matter of direction.

When asked about my priorities (those I would use in either breeding or evaluating dogs), I tend to look for the things that are unique to the breed. While it is very important that a dog is structurally sound, of good temperament, and moves well, that isn't enough to make it a Gordon Setter. Therefore, for me, the things that make our breed distinct are of the utmost importance: an excellent head in all respects; true, rich, clear colour; a short strong tail that is carried well. Next on my list would be a strong, wide thigh; tight arched feet; a substantial and square appearance to the dog. My list doesn't stop there but those are the priorities. As the list grows, it becomes obvious that it's just a restatement of the standard - and that's exactly what it should be.

Read the CKC Standard that follows, then from the links page you might like to review the standards from other countries for comparison.

The BREED STANDARD
approved by the Canadian Kennel Club

General Appearance
A good-sized, sturdily built dog, well muscled, with plenty of bone and substance, but active, upstanding and stylish, appearing capable of doing a full day's work in the field. Strong, rather short back, wellsprung ribs and short tail, a fairly heavy head, finely chiselled, intelligent, noble and dignified expression, showing no signs of shyness; clear colours and straight or slightly waved coat. A dog that suggests strength and stamina rather than extreme speed.
Symmetry and quality are most essential. A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with outstanding good qualities and defects.

Size
Shoulder height for males, 24-27 in. (61-69 cm); for females, 23-26 in, (58-66 cm). Weight - males, 55-75 lb. (25-34 kg); females, 45-65 lb. (20-29 kg). As a guide, the greater heights and weights are to be preferred provided that character and quality are also combined. Dogs over and under these heights and weights are to be discouraged.

Coat and Colour
Coat should be soft and shining, resembling silk, straight or slightly waved - the latter preferred - but not curly, with long hair on ears, under stomach, on chest, and on the back of the fore and hind legs to the feet. Deep, shining coal-black with tan markings, either of rich chestnut or mahogany red colour. The tan should be shining and not dull, yellowish or straw colour and not mixed with black hairs. Black pencilling allowed on toes. The borderlines between black and tan colours should be clearly defined. There should not be any tan hairs mixed in the black.

Tan Markings
a) two clear spots over the eyes not over 3/4 in. (2 cm.) in diameter;
b) on the sides of the muzzle, the tan should not reach above the base of the nose, resembling a stripe around the end of the muzzle from one side to the other;
c) on the throat;
d) two large clear spots on the chest;
e) on the inside of the hind legs and inside of thighs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to the outside of the hind legs from the hock to the toes. It must, however, not completely eliminate the black on the back of the hind legs.
f) on the forelegs from the knees or a little above downward to the toes;
g) around the vent.
A white spot on the chest is allowed, but the smaller the better.

Head
Deep rather than broad, with plenty of brain room, nicely rounded good-sized skull, broadest between the ears. The head should have a clearly indicated stop. Below and above the eyes should be lean and the cheek as narrow as the leanness of the head allows. The muzzle fairly long with almost parallel lines and not pointed either as seen from above or from the side. The flews not pendulous but with clearly indicated lips. The nose big, broad with open nostrils and black colour. Eyes of fair size, neither too deep set nor too bulging; dark brown, bright and wise. Ears set low on the head, fairly large and thin.

Neck
Long, lean, arched to the head and without throatiness.

Forequarters
Shoulders should be fine at the points, deep and sloping well back, giving a moderately sloping topline. Forelegs big boned, straight, not bowed either in or out, with elbows free, well let down and not inclined either in or out.

Body
Chest deep and not too broad in front; the ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room.

Hindquarters
The hind legs from hip to hock should be long, flat and muscular, from hock to heel short and strong. The stifle and hock joints well bent, and not inclined either in or out. Both fore and hind feet should have close knit, well-arched toes with plenty of hair between with full toe pads and deep heel cushions.

Tail
Short and should not reach below the hocks, carried horizontal or nearly so, thick at the root and finishing in a fine point. The feather, which starts near the root of the tail, should be slightly waved or straight and have a three-square appearance growing shorter uniformly toward the end.

Gait
A smooth free movement with high head carriage.

Faults
1. General Impression - Unintelligent appearance. The Bloodhound type with heavy and big head and ears and clumsy body, as well as the Collie type with its pointed muzzle and curved tail, or showing any signs of shyness.
2. Head - Houndy, pointed, snipey, drooping or upturned muzzle, too small or too large mouth.
3. Eyes - Too light in colour, too deep-set or too prominent.
4. Ears Set too high or unusually broad or heavy. 5. Neck Thick and short.
6. Shoulders and Back - Irregularly formed.
7. Chest - Too broad.
8. Legs and Feet - Crooked legs. Out-turned elbows. The toes scattered, flat-footed.
9. Tail - Too long, badly carried or hooked at the end.
10. Coat - Curly like wool, not shining.
11. Colour - Yellow or straw coloured tan or without dearly defined lines between the different colours. White feet. Too much white on the chest. In the black there must be no tan hairs which can appear often around the eyes.